Punta Della Sfinge via Bramani

5i) for the NE wall (via Bramani). - [Climbers] 1931 Salt sinstra edge path from fiorelli away, along a succession of corners and crevices. excellent rock. Enough accompanying repeated. Development: 250m. Difficulty: II / IV. Material: nut and friend up to # 2. Attack: far right wall, near a whitish plaque at the base of the corner. Itinerary: you climb to a whitish plaque machined down to a slit. Climb it and go on to plates and broken rocks up to a dihedral. climb to the crackline and achieve a specroncino; go up it and continue for plates up to a ledge. the original route follows the ledge to the left and continues to steps and plates more easily to the summit. Today, however, if it goes straight to placchete and blades until it meets the road Fiorelli. Equip stops with belays. In a few nails on. Descent: abseil on the road (belays droppie x 40m).

drawn topo

photo topo

Comments

Aproach

Park at Bagni Masino past the hotel/spa in the trees. Follow the track to until reaching signposts for rifugi Omio, take the right hand path labeled 2hrs. The path is marked with red/white/red paint all the way to the hut. After reaching rifugi Omio a small path up the hill and left of the hut towards the P.do Ligoncio, 1.5hrs again marked with red/white/red paint. The Sfinge will become visible and a large painted sign will advise when to divert from the path.

Find the start of the route towards the right of the face, a short scramble leads to a long layback.

Route

We moved together stopping at rappel stations to belay and recover gear. 2hrs45mins from base to summit.

P1; follow the lay back crack to a bolt, then trend left over flakes towards a large ring.
p2; follow the groove and flakes upwards towards another large ring.
p3; continue on flakes untill a left trend takes you through a slight overhanging chimney, head right towards a layback reaching the next ring shortly.
p4; continue on the flakes untill reaching a ledge which can rises leftwards untill it meets a groove trending right. follow to ring.
p5; we climbed up and right briefly skirting a different face of the mountain on an easy but exposed ramp, this lead to a gulley and to a bolt near the summit. Had we climbed left and into a groove we would have found the last ring of the type used for other belays.

Descent

we abseiled back down the face. Our final bolt lead to an Abseil ring a few meters below. From this point each bolt was spaced aproximatly 40 meters apart.